Pore hiding cosmetic composition comprising a plate type filler, a silicon elastomer and an oil absorbing filler

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular in the form of a liquid cosmetic composition, comprising in a physiological medium (i) at least a plate type filler with refractive index&gt;1.6 and having a particle size between 1 μm and 20 um, preferably between 1 μm and 15 μm, (ii) at least a silicon elastomer, preferably a non-emulsifying silicon elastomer, and (iii) at least a filler having an oil absorption capacity greater than or equal to 1 ml/g. The composition is preferably used as a skin care or make-up base or primer intended to decrease the visibility of skin imperfections, in particular the pores and make the pore hiding effect long lasting.

TECHNICAL FIELD

This invention is related to a cosmetic composition, in particular in aliquid or fluid form, which includes an association of plate typefillers with high refractive index, silicon elastomers and oil absorbingparticles. This cosmetic composition allows decreasing the visibility ofpores once applied on the skin. It also makes the pore hiding effectlast during the day. By ‘liquid’ composition according to the invention,we mean liquid or fluid composition, by opposition to solid compositionwhose high hardness doesn't permit the composition to flow under its ownweight.

BACKGROUND ART

Imperfections of the skin are visible because of the contrast betweenbright areas such as skin ridges and dark areas such as skin pores.Light scattering can decrease this brightness gap and may be achieved bymat and haze effect. A good balance between filler oil absorptioncapacity and non-volatile oil content provides mat effect. Introductionof fillers with light scattering properties provides haze effect.

However, particles such as pigments which have strong light scatteringand absorption should be avoided as they tend to accumulate inside thepores and enhance their visibility. As a conclusion, a fluid formula forpore hiding should contain fillers with strong oil absorption capacity,fillers with light scattering properties and preferably low amount ofpigments.

Usually, sebum secretion during the day tends to alter optical effectsachieved just after application of cosmetic composition on the skin.

It remains a need for having a cosmetic composition having pore hidingeffect and keeping this effect during the day.

So far, fluid pore hiding makeup products mainly consist of water-in-oilemulsion including silicon elastomers and/or spherical fillers and/orplate fillers such as barium sulfate, composite materials, small pearls.US2009081316 from Momentive describes the association of siliconelastomer and boron nitride. US2005163730 from Unilever describes theassociation of silicon elastomer, ZnO nanopigment and plate type fillersuch as TiO₂ coated mica or bismuth oxychloride.

DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

To the knowledge of the Applicant, there is none prior pore hiding fluidcomposition having association of (i) plate type fillers with medium tohigh refractive index (RI>1.6 and preferably <2.2) providing goodcoverage and light scattering, (ii) silicon elastomer to thicken thecomposition and enhance the pore hiding effect, and (iii) fillers havingstrong oil absorption to give haze and mat effect.

The invention concerns a cosmetic composition, in particular in the formof a liquid cosmetic composition, comprising in a physiological medium:

-   -   (i) at least a plate type filler with refractive index>1.6 and        having a particle size between 1 μm and 20 μm, preferably        between 1 μm and 15 μm,    -   (ii) at least a silicon elastomer, preferably a non-emulsifying        silicon elastomer, and    -   (iii) at least a filler having an oil absorption capacity        greater than or equal to 1 ml/g.

In a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is a baseor a primer, in particular a skin care or a make-up base or primer.

The composition may comprise from 0 to 5% of dyestuffs by total weightof the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the plate type filler has a refractive index1.6<RI<2.2.

In a particular embodiment, a cosmetic composition according to theinvention comprises from 0 to 3% of dyestuffs by total weight of thecomposition.

The invention also concerns a cosmetic process comprising a step ofapplying at least one layer of the cosmetic composition according to theinvention onto the skin, in particular the skin of the face.

In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition is applied as abase or a primer under a skin care product or a make-up product.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention is particularlyintended to decrease the visibility of skin imperfections, in particularthe pores and make the pore hiding effect long lasting.

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

Plate Type Filler with High Refractive Index

The composition according to the invention comprises a least a platetype filler with high refractive index (RI>1.6) and particle sizebetween 1 μm and 15 μm.

In particular the plate type filler has refractive index comprisedbetween 1.6 and 2.2 and a particle size between 1 μm and 15 μm.

The particle size are expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]).

In particular, the said plate type filler is chosen from boron nitride,barium sulfate, bismuth oxychloride, alumina and composite powders basedon titanium oxide and substrate like talc, mica, barium sulfate, boronnitride, bismuth oxychloride, alumina, and mixtures thereof.

In a particular embodiment, the plate type filler is a boron nitride.

In a preferred embodiment, the plate type filler is a boron nitridehaving a particle size between 1 μm and 10 μm, and in particular between1 and 6 μm.

As examples of commercial products of boron nitride, we may use thefollowing products: PUHP3008 from Saint Gobains Ceramics (mean particlesize 6 μm), the PUHP1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics (mean particle size3 μm), the Softouch BN CC6058 powder from Momentive PerformanceMaterials (mean particle size 5-15 μm), or mixtures thereof.

The plate type filler is present in the composition of the invention inan amount ranging from 0.5 to 20%, preferably from 1 to 10% and morepreferably from 2 to 5% by weight of the total weight of thecomposition.

Silicon Elastomers (Organopolysiloxane Elastomer)

The composition according to the invention also comprises at least asilicon elastomer.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a non-emulsifyingsilicon elastomer.

The non-emulsifying silicon elastomer may be in form of a gel or apowder.

The ‘organopolysiloxane elastomer’ or ‘silicon elastomer’ makes itpossible to thicken the composition and to improve the applicationproperties thereof. It provides a very soft and mattifying feel afterapplication, which is especially advantageous for an application to theskin. This elastomer is either a gel or a soft powder.

The expression “organopolysiloxane elastomer” or “silicone elastomer”means a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelasticproperties and especially the consistency of a sponge or a flexiblesphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstandsdeformation and has limited stretchability and contractability. Thismaterial is capable of regaining its original shape after stretching.

It is more particularly a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer.

Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by crosslinkingaddition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least onehydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane containingethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in thepresence of a platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinkingcondensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxylend groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogenbonded to silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin; or bycrosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containinghydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or bythermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presenceof an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxanevia high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or anelectron beam.

Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinkingaddition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least twohydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxanecontaining at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded tosilicon, especially in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst, asdescribed, for instance, in patent application EP-A-295 886.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained byreaction of a dimethylpolysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy endgroups and of methylhydrogenpolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy endgroups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Compound (A) is the base reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxaneelastomer, and the crosslinking is performed by addition reaction ofcompound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of to the catalyst (C).

Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at leasttwo hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.

Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, especially a linear-chainor branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.

Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 1 to 50 000centistokes, especially so as to be miscible with compound (B).

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may bealkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substitutedalkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl;substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalenthydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate estergroup or a mercapto group.

Compound (A) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenpolysiloxanescontaining trimethylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrosiloxane copolymers containingtrimethylsiloxy end groups, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrosiloxanecyclic copolymers.

Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing atleast two lower alkenyl groups (for example C₂-C₄); the lower alkenylgroup may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These loweralkenyl groups may be located in any position of the organopolysiloxanemolecule, but are preferably located at the ends of theorganopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have abranched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic or network structure, but thelinear-chain structure is preferred. Compound (B) may have a viscosityranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound (B)has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25° C.

Besides the abovementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groupsbonded to the silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups such asmethyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups suchas phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl;and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxygroup, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes,methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanescontaining dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers containingdimethylvinylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymerscontaining dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containingtrimethylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymerscontaining trimethylsiloxy end groups,methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes containingdimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, anddimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymerscontaining dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained byreaction of dimethylpolysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy endgroups and of methylhydrogenpolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy endgroups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per moleculein compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to siliconatoms per molecule in compound (A) is at least 5.

It is advantageous for compound (A) to be added in an amount such thatthe molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded tosilicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all theethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is within the rangefrom 1.5/1 to 20/1.

Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and isespecially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes,chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinicacid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

The catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as cleanplatinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount ofcompounds (A) and (B).

The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.

The term “non-emulsifying” defines organopolysiloxane elastomers notcontaining any hydrophilic chains, and in particular not containing anypolyoxyalkylene units (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene)or any polyglyceryl units. Thus, according to one particular embodimentof the invention, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxaneelastomer that is free of polyoxyalkylene units and polyglyceryl units.

Non-emulsifying elastomers are especially described in patents EP 242219, EP 285 886 and EP 765 656 and in patent application JP-A-61-194009.

Non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used more particularly includethose sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41,KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by the company Shin-Etsu, DC 9040 and DC 9041by the company Dow Corning, and SFE 839 by the company General Electric.

Spherical non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used include those soldunder the names DC 9040, DC 9041, DC 9509, DC 9505 and DC 9506 by thecompany Dow Corning.

In an embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles areconveyed in the form of a gel formed from an elastomericorganopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/orone silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles areoften non-spherical particles.

As preferred non-emulsifying silicone elastomer in gel form, we may citethe INCI Name products Dimethicone crosspolymers such as DC9041, DC9045from Dow Corning.

In another embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles areconveyed in the form of a powder.

As preferred non-emulsifying silicone elastomer in powder form, we maycite the INCI Name products Dimethicone/Vinyldimethicone crosspolymersuch as the DC9506 and DC9701 from Dow Corning and KSG6 from Shin Etsu.

In another embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises atleast one silicone elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin. Thesilicone elastomer powder is spherical and may be obtained especiallyvia the processes for synthesizing non-emulsifying elastomers describedabove. The silicone elastomer powder is coated with silicone resin.

According to one preferred embodiment, the silicone resin may be asilsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No.5,538,793, the content of which is incorporated herein by way ofreference. Such elastomer powders coated with silicone resin areespecially sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103,KSP-104 and KSP-105 by the company Shin-Etsu. Such powders correspond tothe INCI name dimethicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, and in particularvinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer. As a preferredelastomer powder coated with silicone resin, we may use KSP100.

The silicone elastomer particles may have a JIS-A hardness of less thanor equal to 80 (especially ranging from 5 to 80) and preferably lessthan or equal to 65 (especially ranging from 5 to 65). The JIS-Ahardness is measured according to the method RS K 6301 (1995)established by the Japanese Industrial Standards Committee.

In particular, the silicone elastomer particles may have a mean sizeranging from 0.1 to 500 μm, preferably from 3 to 200 μm and better stillfrom 10 to 20 μm. These particles may be of spherical, flat or amorphousshape, and preferably of spherical shape.

This organopolysiloxane elastomer or silicon elastomer is present in thecomposition generally in a content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight ofactive material (=dry matter) and preferably from 2% to 10% by weightrelative to the total weight of said composition.

Fillers with oil absorption capacity greater than or equal to 100 ml/100g

The composition according to the invention comprises also a fillerhaving an oil absorption capacity greater than or equal to 100 ml/100 g,ie greater than or equal to 1 ml/g. The said filler according to theinvention has capacity for absorbing and/or adsorbing an oil or a liquidfatty substance, for instance sebum (from the skin).

This oil-absorbing filler may also advantageously have a BET specificsurface area of greater than or equal to 300 m²/g, preferably greaterthan 500 m²/g and preferentially greater than 600 m²/g, and especiallyless than 1500 m²/g.

The BET specific surface area is determined according to the BET(Brunauer-Emmet-Teller) method described in the Journal of the AmericanChemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding tothe international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D). The BET specificsurface area corresponds to the total specific surface area (thusincluding micropores) of the powder.

The filler under consideration according to the invention is thuscharacterized in that it has an oil uptake of greater than or equal to 1ml/g, preferably greater than or equal 1.5 ml/g, especially ranging from1.5 ml/g to 20 ml/g, or even ranging from 1.5 ml/g to 15 ml/g. Itpreferably has an oil uptake of greater than or equal to 2 ml/g,especially ranging from 2 ml/g to 20 ml/g, or even ranging from 2 ml/gto 15 ml/g.

This oil uptake, which corresponds to the amount of oil absorbed and/oradsorbed by the filler, may be characterized by measuring the wet pointaccording to the method described below.

Method for Measuring the Oil Uptake of a Filler

The oil uptake of a powder is measured according to the method fordetermining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the availablesurface of the filler, by measuring the wet point.

An amount m (in grams) of powder of between about 0.5 g and 5 g (theamount depends on the density of the powder) is placed on a glass plateand isononyl isononanoate is then added dropwise.

After addition of 4 to 5 drops of isononyl isononanoate, the isononylisononanoate is incorporated into the filler using a spatula, andaddition of the isononyl isononanoate is continued until a conglomerateof isononyl isononanoate and powder has formed. At this point, theisononyl isononanoate is added one drop at a time and the mixture isthen triturated with the spatula. The addition of isononyl isononanoateis stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must beable to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps.The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of isononyl isononanoate used is thennoted.

The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.

The oil-uptake filler under consideration according to the invention maybe of organic or inorganic nature.

The filler having oil absorption capacity greater than or equal to 1ml/g may be chosen more particularly from silicas, silica silylates (inparticular hydrophobic silica aerogel particles), polyamide (inparticular Nylon-6) powders, powders of acrylic polymers, especially ofpolymethyl methacrylate, of polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycoldimethacrylate, of polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylateor of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer;perlites; magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof.

A person skilled in the art will select among the abovementionedmaterials fillers with an oil uptake of greater than or equal to 1 ml/g,preferably greater than or equal to 1.5 ml/g and preferably greater thanor equal to 2 ml/g, which are in this respect suitable for use in theinvention.

Advantageously, the oil-absorbing powder may be a powder coated with ahydrophobic treatment agent

The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen especially from fattyacids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate,the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids;N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyltitanate, mineral waxes, and mixtures thereof.

The N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl,myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of thesecompounds may be aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodiumor potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamicacid or alanine.

The term “alkyl” mentioned in the compounds mentioned previouslyespecially denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atomsand preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

Examples of fillers in accordance with the invention, i.e. fillers withan oil uptake of greater than or equal to 1 ml/g, preferably greaterthan or equal to 1.5 ml/g, are described below, with their oil uptakevalue measured according to the protocol described previously.

Silica powders that may be mentioned include:

-   -   porous silica microspheres, especially those sold under the        names Sunsphere® H53 and Sunsphere® H33 (oil uptake equal to        3.70 ml/g) by the company Asahi Glass; MSS-500-3H by the company        Kobo;    -   polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres,        especially those sold under the name SA Sunsphere® H33 (oil        uptake equal to 2.43 ml/g),    -   silica silylate powders, especially the hydrophobic silica        aerogel particles sold under the name Dow Corning VM-2270        Aerogel Fine Particles by the company Dow Corning (oil uptake        equal to 10.40 ml/g),    -   amorphous hollow silica particles, especially those sold under        the name Silica Shells by the company Kobo (oil uptake equal to        5.50 ml/g), and    -   precipitated silica powders surface-treated with a mineral wax,        such as precipitated silica treated with a polyethylene wax, and        especially those sold under the name Acematt OR 412 by the        company Evonik-Degussa (oil uptake equal to 3.98 ml/g).

Acrylic polymer powders that may be mentioned include:

-   -   porous polymethyl methacrylate (INCI name methyl methacrylate        crosspolymer) such as the spheres sold under the name Covabead        LH85 by the company Sensient,    -   porous polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate        spheres sold under the name Microsponge 5640 by the company        Cardinal Health Technologies (oil uptake equal to 1.55 ml/g),        and    -   ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer        powders, especially those sold under the name Polytrap® 6603        from the company Dow Corning (oil uptake equal to 6.56 ml/g).

Polyamide powders that may be mentioned include:

-   -   nylon-6 powder, especially the product sold under the name        Pomp610 by the company UBE Industries (oil uptake equal to 2.02        ml/g).

A perlite powder that may especially be mentioned is the product soldunder the name Optimat 1430 OR by the company World Minerals (oil uptakeequal to 2.4 ml/g).

A magnesium carbonate powder that may especially be mentioned is theproduct sold under the name Tipo Carbomagel by the company Buschle &Lepper (oil uptake equal to 2.14 ml/g).

The oil-absorbing fillers that are particularly preferred are silica andsilica silylate powders and more particularly the products sold underthe name Sunsphere® H33 by the company Asahi Glass and under the nameDow Corning VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles by the company Dow Corning;nylon-6 powder and porous polymethyl methacrylate (INCI name methylmethacrylate crosspolymer) such as the spheres sold under the nameCovabead LH85 by the company Sensient.

In a particular embodiment, the filler having a oil absorption capacitygreater than or equal to 1 ml/g is an hydrophobic silica aerogel (silicasilylate).

Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying)the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in liquid mediumand then dried, usually by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the onemost commonly used being supercritical CO₂. This type of drying makes itpossible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material. Thesol-gel process and the various drying processes are described in detailin Brinker C J., and Scherer G. W., Sol-Gel Science: New York: AcademicPress, 1990.

The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that may be used in the presentinvention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (S_(M)) rangingfrom 500 to 1500 m²/g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m²/g and better stillfrom 600 to 800 m²/g, and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter(D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 μm, better still from 1 to 1000 μm,preferably from 1 to 100 μm, in particular from 1 to 30 μm, morepreferably from 5 to 25 μm, better still from 5 to 20 μm and even betterstill from 5 to 15 μm.

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particlesthat may be used in the present invention have a size expressed as themean volume diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 μm, preferably from 5to 25 μm, better still from 5 to 20 μm and even better still from 5 to15 μm.

The specific surface area per unit of mass may be determined via the BET(Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) nitrogen absorption method described in theJournal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1(appendix D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the totalspecific surface area of the particles under consideration.

The size of the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may be measured bystatic light scattering using a commercial granulometer such as theMasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed on thebasis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact forisotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case ofnon-spherical particles, an “effective” particle diameter. This theoryis especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H. C.,“Light Scattering by Small Particles,” Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, NewYork, 1957.

According to one advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogelparticles used in the present invention have a specific surface area perunit of mass (S_(M)) ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g and a size expressedas the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 μm and betterstill from 5 to 15 μm.

The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present inventionmay advantageously have a tamped density ρ ranging from 0.04 g/cm³ to0.10 g/cm³ and preferably from 0.05 g/cm³ to 0.08 g/cm³.

In the context of the present invention, this density, known as thetamped density, may be assessed according to the following protocol:

40 g of powder are poured into a measuring cylinder; the measuringcylinder is then placed on a Stay 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter;the measuring cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 packingmotions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volumebetween two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf ofpacked powder is then measured directly on the measuring cylinder. Thetamped density is determined by the ratio m/Vf, in this instance 40/Vf(Vf being expressed in cm³ and m in g).

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particlesthat may be used in the present invention have a specific surface areaper unit of volume S_(V) ranging from 5 to 60 m²/cm³, preferably from 10to 50 m²/cm³ and better still from 15 to 40 m²/cm³.

The specific surface area per unit of volume is given by therelationship:

S_(V)=S_(M)·ρ; where ρ is the tamped density expressed in g/cm³ andS_(M) is the specific surface area per unit of mass expressed in m²/g,as defined above.

Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to theinvention have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point,ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better stillfrom 8 to 12 ml/g.

The oil-absorbing capacity measured at the wet point, noted Wp,corresponds to the amount of water that needs to be added to 100 g ofparticle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.

It is measured according to the wet point method or the method fordetermining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the availablesurface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wetpoint, described below:

An amount m=2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate, and the oil(isononyl isononanoate) is then added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5drops of oil to the powder, mixing is performed using a spatula, andaddition of oil is continued until a conglomerate of oil and powder hasformed. At this point, the oil is added one drop at a time and themixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil isstopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be ableto be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. Thevolume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.

The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.

The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that may be used according tothe present invention are preferably of silylated silica type (INCIname: silica silylate).

The term “hydrophobic silica” means any silica whose surface is treatedwith silylating agents, for example halogenated silanes such asalkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such ashexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groupswith silyl groups Si—Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

As regards the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogels particles thathave been surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made todocument U.S. Pat. No. 7,470,725.

Use will be made in particular of hydrophobic silica aerogels particlessurface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups with INCI name Silicasilylate.

As hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that may be used in theinvention, examples that may be mentioned include the aerogel sold underthe name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the companyDow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to800 m²/g.

Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot underthe references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, andENOVA AEROGEL MT 1100.

Use will be made more particularly of the aerogel sold under the nameVM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, theparticles of which have a mean size ranging from 5-15 microns and aspecific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g (oiluptake equal to 1080 ml/100 g).

Advantageously, the hollow particles in accordance with the inventionare at least partly formed from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles,preferably those with a specific surface area per unit of mass (S_(M))ranging from 500 to 1500 m²/g and preferably from 600 to 1200 m²/g, anda size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to1500 μm, better still from 1 to 1000 μm, preferably from 1 to 100 μm, inparticular from 1 to 30 μm, more preferably from 5 to 25 μm, betterstill from 5 to 20 μm and even better still from 5 to 15 μm.

The use of the hollow particles according to the invention, inparticular of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, also advantageouslymakes it possible to improve the remanence of the cosmetic propertiesafforded by the composition on keratin materials, in particular theskin.

The filler(s) with an oil uptake of greater than or equal to 1 ml/g,preferably greater or equal than 1.5 ml/g may be present in acomposition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight andpreferentially ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition.

In particular for the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, which arevery efficient in term of oil absorption capacity, they may be presentin an amount ranging from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to3.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2.0% by total weight of thecomposition.

Physiologically Acceptable Medium

Besides the compounds indicated previously, a composition according tothe invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

The term “physiologically acceptable medium” is intended to denote amedium that is particularly suitable for applying a compositionaccording to the invention to the skin.

The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the natureof the support onto which the composition is to be applied, and also tothe form in which the composition is to be packaged.

A composition of the invention may be a dispersion or an emulsion.

A dispersion may be made as an aqueous phase or as an oily phase.

An emulsion may have an oily or aqueous continuous phase. Such anemulsion may be, for example, an inverse (W/O) emulsion or a direct(O/W) emulsion, or alternatively a multiple emulsion (W/O/W or O/W/O).

In the case of emulsions, inverse (W/O) emulsions are preferred.

Aqueous Phase

The composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueousphase.

The aqueous phase comprises water. A water that is suitable for use inthe invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or amineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay waterand/or a spring water.

The aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (atroom temperature: 25° C.), to for instance monoalcohols containing from2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols especiallycontaining from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms,such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol,hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers(especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- ortripropylene glycol (C₁-C₄)alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethyleneglycol (C₁-C₄)alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.

The aqueous phase may also comprise stabilizers, for example sodiumchloride, magnesium dichloride or magnesium sulfate.

The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble orwater-dispersible compound that is compatible with an aqueous phase,such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners orsurfactants, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, a composition of the invention may comprise an aqueousphase in a content ranging from 1% to 80% by weight, especially from 5%to 50% and more particularly from 10% to 45% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may beanhydrous.

An anhydrous composition may comprise less than 5% by weight of waterrelative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than3%, especially less than 2% and more particularly less than 1% by weightof water relative to the total weight of the composition.

More particularly, an anhydrous composition may be free of water.

Fatty Phase

A cosmetic composition in accordance with the present invention maycomprise at least one liquid and/or solid fatty phase.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the presentinvention is in the form of an emulsion.

In particular, a composition of the invention may comprise at least oneliquid fatty phase, especially at least one oil as mentioned below.

The term “oil” means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at roomtemperature (20-25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure.

A composition of the invention may comprise a liquid fatty phase in acontent ranging from 1% to 90%, in particular from 5% to 80%, inparticular from 10% to 70% and more particularly from 20% to 50% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The oily phase that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositionsaccording to the to invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils,silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.

The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

The term “non-volatile oil” means an oil that remains on the skin or thekeratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Morespecifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly lessthan 0.01 mg/cm²/min.

To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of oil or of oil mixture to betested are placed in a crystallizing dish 7 cm in diameter, which isplaced on a balance in a large chamber of about 0.3 m³ that istemperature-regulated, at a temperature of 25° C., andhygrometry-regulated, at a relative humidity of 50%. The liquid isallowed to evaporate freely, without stirring it, while providingventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotatingat 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dishcontaining said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed towardsthe crystallizing dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallizingdish. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured atregular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oilevaporated per unit of area (cm²) and per unit of time (minutes).

The term “volatile oil” means any non-aqueous medium that is capable ofevaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour,at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is acosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. Morespecifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and200 mg/cm²/min, limits included.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” meansan oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least oneSi—O group.

The term “fluoro oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorineatom.

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil mainly containing hydrogenand carbon atoms.

The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/orphosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

Volatile Oils

The volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containingfrom 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C₈-C₁₆ branched alkanes (alsoknown as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, for instancethe oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permethyl®.

Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile silicones, forinstance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those witha viscosity of less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8×10⁻⁶ m²/s),and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particularfrom 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkylor alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatilesilicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be madeespecially of dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt,octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane,heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane,octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane anddodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprisefrom 1% to 80% by zo weight, or even from 5% to 70% by weight, or evenfrom 10% to 60% by weight and especially from 15% to 50% by weight ofvolatile oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-Volatile Oils

The non-volatile oils may be chosen especially from non-volatilehydrocarbon-based, fluoro and/or silicone oils.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentionedinclude:

-   -   hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as        perhydrosqualene,    -   hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl        esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate        and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto,        Eldew PS203), triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of        glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids may have chain        lengths ranging from C₄ to C₃₆ and especially from C₁₈ to C₃₆,        these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or        unsaturated; these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic        triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, winter squash        oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil,        passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil,        peach stone oil, groundnut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab        oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil,        canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, flax oil, rapeseed oil,        cotton oil, coconut oil, marrow seed oil, wheatgerm oil, jojoba        oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St        John's Wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil,        walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil,        blackcurrant pip oil, kiwi seed oil, grapeseed oil, pistachio        oil, winter squash oil, pumpkin oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil,        soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon seed oil,        and mixtures thereof, or alternatively caprylic/capric acid        triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearineries        Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818®        by the company Dynamit Nobel,    -   linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin,        such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum        jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such        as Parleam, and squalane;    -   synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;    -   synthetic esters, for instance the oils of formula R₁COOR₂, in        which R₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue        containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a        hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched,        containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that the sum        of the number of carbon atoms in the chains R₁ and R₂ is greater        than or equal to 10. The esters may be chosen especially from        fatty acid esters of alcohols, for instance cetostearyl        octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl        myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl        palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl        isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance        isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate,        heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or        polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance        propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl        octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate,        alkyl benzoates, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene        glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C₁₂-C₁₅ alcohol        benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance        isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl        neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid        esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl        isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters, for        instance isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate,    -   polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for instance        dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,    -   esters of diol dimers and of diacid dimers, such as Lusplan        DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® sold by the company Nippon Fine        Chemical and described in patent application US 2004-175 338,    -   copolymers of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer and esters        thereof, such as dilinoleyl diol dimer/dilinoleic dimer        copolymers and esters thereof, for instance Plandool-G,    -   copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof,        such as Hailuscent ISDA or the dilinoleic acid/butanediol        copolymer,    -   fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a        branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from        12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl        alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and        2-undecylpentadecanol;    -   C₁₂-C₂₂ higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or        linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,    -   dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being        identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under        the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis,    -   oils of high molar mass, in particular having a molar mass        ranging from about 400 to about 10 000 g/mol, in particular from        about 650 to about 10 000 g/mol, in particular from about 750 to        about 7500 g/mol and more particularly ranging from about 1000        to about 5000 g/mol. As oils of high molar mass that may be used        in the present invention, mention may especially be made of oils        chosen from:        -   lipophilic polymers,        -   linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging            from 35 to 70,        -   hydroxylated esters,        -   aromatic esters,        -   C₂₄-C₂₈ branched fatty acid or fatty alcohol esters,        -   silicone oils,        -   oils of plant origin, and        -   mixtures thereof;    -   optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone fluoro        oils, for instance fluorosilicone oils, fluoropolyethers and        fluorosilicones as described in document EP-A-847 752;    -   silicone oils, for instance linear or cyclic non-volatile        polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising        alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end        of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon        atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones,        phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes,        diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and        2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and    -   mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment, the fatty phase of thecomposition according to the invention can contain only volatilecompounds.

Dyestuffs

A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least onedyestuff

The amount of dyestuff(s) in the base or primer composition of theinvention will generally range from 0 to 5% by weight of total weight ofthe composition, in particular from 0.5 to 3% by weight of total weightof the composition.

In a particular embodiment, the composition will contain a low amount oftitanium dioxide, ie less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% byweight of titanium dioxide.

A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention may incorporateat least one dyestuff chosen from mineral or organic pigmentsconventionally used in cosmetic compositions, liposoluble orwater-soluble dyes, materials with a specific optical effect, andmixtures thereof.

The term “pigments” should be understood to mean white or coloured,inorganic or organic particles which are insoluble in an aqueoussolution and are intended for colouring and/or opacifying the resultingfilm.

As inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may bemade of titanium oxides, zirconium oxides or cerium oxides, and alsozinc oxides, iron oxides or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganeseviolet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate. According to oneparticular mode of the invention, the mineral pigments will be chosenfrom iron oxides and titanium oxides, and mixtures thereof.

It may also be a pigment having a structure that may be, for example, ofsericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type. Such a pigmentis sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by thecompany Chemicals and Catalysts, and has a contrast ratio in the regionof 30.

The colorant may also comprise a pigment having a structure which maybe, for example, of the type such as silica microspheres containing ironoxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is the product soldby the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, thispigment being constituted of silica microspheres containing yellow ironoxide.

Among the organic pigments that may be used in the invention, mentionmay be made of carbon black, pigments of D&C type, lakes based oncochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium, oralternatively the diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP) described in documents EP0 542 669, EP 0 787 730, EP 0 787 731 and WO 96/08537.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprisewater-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. The liposoluble dyes are, forexample, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil,Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinolineyellow. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice andcaramel.

Additional Fillers

A composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise atleast one additional filler, of organic or mineral nature, making itpossible especially to give it additional matt-effect or coveringproperties, and/or improved stability with regard to exudation andmigration-resistance properties after application.

The term “filler” should be understood to mean colourless or white solidparticles of any shape which are in a form that is insoluble anddispersed in the medium of the composition. These particles, of mineralor organic nature, can give body or rigidity to the composition and/orsoftness and uniformity to the makeup.

The fillers used in the compositions according to the present inventionmay be in lamellar, globular or spherical form, in the form of fibres orin any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated,and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, aminoacids, fluoro derivatives or any other substance that promotes thedispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

Examples of mineral fillers that may be mentioned include talc, mica,silica, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite,glass or ceramic microcapsules.

Examples of organic fillers that may be mentioned include polyethylenepowder or polymethyl methacrylate powder, polytetrafluoroethylene(Teflon) powders, lauroyllysine, hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylolhexyl lactone copolymer powder (Plastic Powder from Toshiki), siliconeresin microbeads (for example Tospearl from Toshiba), natural orsynthetic micronized waxes, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylicacids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithiumstearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate, and polyurethane powders,in particular crosslinked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer,the said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone. It may inparticular be a hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyl lactonepolymer. Such particles are especially commercially available, forexample, under the name Plastic Powder D-400® or Plastic Powder D-800®from the company Toshiki, and mixtures thereof.

Additives

In a particular embodiment, a cosmetic composition according to theinvention further comprises at least one compound chosen from water,hydrophilic solvents, lipophilic solvents, oils, and mixtures thereof.

A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise anyadditive usually used in the field under consideration, chosen, forexample, from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionicsurfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, thickening agents,structuring agents such as waxes, dispersants, antioxidants, essentialoils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics,UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins,moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, and mixturesthereof.

It is a matter of routine operations for a person skilled in the art toadjust the nature and amount of the additives present in thecompositions in accordance with the invention such that the desiredcosmetic properties and stability properties thereof are not therebyaffected.

A cosmetic composition of the invention may be in the form of a skinmakeup product, in particular a foundation, a hot-cast foundationproduct, a body makeup product, a concealer, an eyeshadow or a lipstick.It may be in the form of an anhydrous gel, in the form of a stick orwand, or in the form of a soft paste.

A care composition according to the invention may in particular be anantisun composition. Preferably, the composition according to theinvention is in the form of a fluid primer or a fluid foundation.

In a particular embodiment, the composition is an emulsion.

The invention also concerns a cosmetic process comprising a step ofapplying at least one layer of the cosmetic composition according to theinvention, onto the skin, in particular the skin of the face. In aparticular embodiment, the cosmetic composition is applied alone or as abase or primer under a skin care product or a make up product.

The cosmetic process is particularly intended to decrease the visibilityof skin imperfections, in particular the pores and make the pore hidingeffect long lasting.

EXAMPLES

All compositions are written with percentages by weight. They wereprepared according to the same protocol: mix oil phase ingredientstogether and heat up to 60-80° C. until wax is melted, disperse pigmentsand fillers inside the oil phase then proceed to emulsification byadding water phase ingredients.

Example 1 Effect of the Combination of Filler with RI>1.6, SiliconElastomer and Filler Having Oil Absorption>1 ml/g on Pore Hiding andLong Lasting

Compared to original formula F1, the following modifications were done:

-   -   silicon elastomer (DC9041) was replaced by dimethicone (Silicone        Fluid 5CS) in formula F2 boron nitride (Softouch) was replaced        by a low refractive index plate type filler, talc (Luzenac 00)        in formula F3 and by a large size plate type filler, TiO₂ coated        mica pearl (Flamenco Blue) in formula F4    -   porous PMMA (Covabead) was replaced by non-porous PMMA        (Micropearl M100) in formula F5

F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 INCI invention comparative comparative comparativecomparative Dimethicone (Silicone Fluid 22.00 22.00 22.00 22.00 22.002CS) Dimethicone (Silicone Fluid — 16.00 — — — 5CS) Dimethicone-PEG/PPG-2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 18/8 Dimethicone (X-22- 6711D) PEG-10Dimethicone (KF- 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 6017) Dimethicone-Dimethicone16.00 — 16.00 16.00 16.00 crosspolymer (Dow Corning 9041) Tribehenin(Syncrowax HR- 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 C) Ethylhexyl 5.00 5.00 5.005.00 5.00 methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX) Iron oxides-Disodium 0.22 0.220.22 0.22 0.22 stearoyl glutamate- Aluminium dioxide (NAI- C33-9001)Iron oxides-Disodium 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 stearoyl glutamate-Aluminium dioxide (NAI- C33-8001) Titanium dioxide-Disodium 2.72 2.722.72 2.72 2.72 stearoyl glutamate- Aluminium dioxide (NAI- TAO-77891)Boron nitride (Softouch 3.00 3.00 — — 3.00 CC6058) Talc (Luzenac 00) — —3.00 — — Mica-Titanium dioxide — — — 3.00 — (Flamenco Blue 620C) Methylmethacrylate 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 — crosspolymer (Covabead LH85)Polymethyl methacrylate — — — — 2.00 (Micropearl M100) Magnesium sulfate1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50Caprylyl glycol 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Butylene glycol 2.00 2.00 2.002.00 2.00 Glycerin 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Water 34.00 34.00 34.0034.00 34.00 Alcohol 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 TOTAL 100 100 100 100 100

Refrative indexes of boron nitride (Softouch) and talc (Luzenac 00) arerespectively about 1.65 and 1.58 (<1.6).

Average particle sizes of boron nitride (Softouch) and TiO2 coated mica(Flamenco Blue 620C) are respectively about 11 μm and 22 μm (>20 μm).

Oil absorption capacities of porous PMMA (Covabead) and non-porous PMMA(Micropearl M100) are respectively about 1.2 ml/g and 0.5 ml/g (<1ml/g).

The formulas where tested in an expert evaluation wherein the followingcriteria were evaluated: pore hiding, skin brightening, colorhomogeneity, long lasting. The test consists in the application of 0.1 gof product on half face of 6 different panelists to see the differencesbetween two formulas

The results are presented in the table hereunder:

+++: very high effect

++: high effect

+/−: low effect

−: no effect

TABLE 1 Results F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 Attribute (invention) (comparative)(comparative) (comparative) comparative Pore hiding +++ − +/− − ++ Skinbrightening ++ ++ +/− ++ ++ Color +++ +/− ++ − +/− homogeneity Longlasting ++ − − − +/−

The formula F1 shows better pore hiding effect than formulas F2, F3, F4and F5. Moreover, lasting of pore hiding effect is better for formula F1than for formula F5. As a result, the association of plate type fillerwith high refractive index (>1.6), silicon elastomer and filler withstrong oil absorption capacity (>1 ml/1 g) is able to decrease thevisibility of pores and to keep this effect during the day.

Example 2 Make-Up Base Formulas

Here are other examples of makeup base formulas with good properties interm of pore hiding effect, skin brightening, color homogeneity and longlasting, including similar fillers association.

INCI F6 F7 Dimethicone (Silicone Fluid 2CS) 23.00 23.00Dimethicone-PEG/PPG-18/8 Dimethicone (X-22-6711D) 2.00 2.00 PEG-10Dimethicone (KF-6017) 1.00 1.00 Dimethicone-Dimethicone crosspolymer(Dow Corning 12.00 12.00 9041) Tribehenin (Syncrowax HR-C) 1.00 1.00Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX) 6.00 6.00 Iron oxides-Disodiumstearoyl glutamate-Aluminium 0.11 0.11 dioxide (NAI-C33-9001) Ironoxides-Disodium stearoyl glutamate-Aluminium 0.05 0.05 dioxide(NAI-C33-8001) Titanium dioxide-Disodium stearoyl glutamate- 2.34 2.34Aluminium dioxide (NAI-TAO-77891) Boron nitride (Softouch CC6058) 3.00 —Boron nitride (PUHP 1030L) 3.00 Vinyl dimethicone/Methiconesilsesquioxane (KSP100) 4.00 4.00 Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer(Covabead LH85) 2.00 2.00 Silica silylate (VM-2270 Aerogel) 0.50 0.50Magnesium sulfate 0.70 0.70 Phenoxyethanol 0.50 0.50 Caprylyl glycol0.50 0.50 Butylene glycol 2.00 2.00 Glycerin 3.00 3.00 Water 32.30 32.30Alcohol 4.00 4.00 TOTAL 100 100

Sensorial Evaluation

After application on the skin, the formulas makes the pores less visibleand keep the covering pores during the day. It spread smoothly, thetexture was soft and did not make the skin feel and look dry during theday, nor the skin have oily shine badly.

Effect as a Make-Up Base or Primer Under a Foundation

F6 formula was also found to improve lasting of overall makeup resultand especially mat effect when it was applied as a base layer beforefoundation. Instrumental evaluation of mat effect with polarimetriccamera was performed on 8 different panelists after application of ‘TWC’(Two Way Cake) foundation only or above mentioned makeup base (MUB) andfoundation (0.1 g on half face for each). After 3 h, mat effect wasbetter when makeup base was applied before foundation.

TABLE 2 Polarimetric camera data Product Mat (Timm-T0) Mat (T3h-T0) Mat(T3h-Timm) F8  −8.59 ± 2.96   0.73 ± 5.82 9.32 ± 4.44 F6 + F8 −14.43 ±3.49 −9.02 ± 4.09 5.41 ± 1.96 TWC foundation formula used ininstrumental test INCI F8 Talc-Dimethicone (SA-13R) 42.47 Mica (SericiteSL) 18.00 Nylon-12 6.00 Vinyl dimethicone/Methicone 6.00 silsesquioxane(KSP100) Titanium dioxide 14.00 Iron oxides 2.83 Caprylic/Caprictriglyceride 2.00 Dimethicone (KF-96A) 5.30 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate3.00 (Parsol MCX) Preservatives 0.40 TOTAL 100

Application of a make-up base according to the invention makes theoverall look with other makeup product last longer and beautify the lookafter other face makeup. It is easy for next-step face makeup to applysmoothly and evenly whiten skin tone.

1.-20. (canceled)
 21. A cosmetic composition comprising, in aphysiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least one plate type fillerhaving a refractive index greater than about 1.6 and having a particlesize ranging from about 1 μm to about 20 μm, (ii) at least one siliconelastomer, and (iii) at least one filler having an oil absorptioncapacity greater than or equal to about 1 mL/g.
 22. The cosmeticcomposition according to claim 21, further comprising at least onedyestuff in an amount ranging up to about 5% by weight, relative to thetotal weight of the composition.
 23. The cosmetic composition accordingto claim 21, wherein the at least one plate type filler is chosen fromboron nitride; barium sulfate; bismuth oxychloride; alumina; compositepowders based on titanium oxide and a substrate chosen from talc, mica,barium sulfate, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, alumina, or mixturesthereof; or mixtures thereof.
 24. The cosmetic composition according toclaim 21, wherein the at least one plate type filler is boron nitride.25. The cosmetic composition according to claim 21, wherein the totalamount of plate type filler present in the composition ranges from about0.5% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of thecomposition.
 26. The cosmetic composition according to claim 21, whereinthe at least one silicon elastomer is a non-emulsifying siliconelastomer in the form of a gel or a powder.
 27. The cosmetic compositionaccording to claim 21, wherein the total amount of silicon elastomerpresent in the composition ranges from about 1% to about 30% by weight,relative to the total weight of the composition.
 28. The cosmeticcomposition according to claim 21, wherein the at least one fillerhaving oil absorption capacity greater than or equal to about 1 mL/g ischosen from silicas; silica silylates, hydrophobic silica aerogelparticles; polyamide powders, Nylon-6 powders; powders of acrylicpolymers, polymethyl methacrylate, polymethyl methacrylate/ethyleneglycol dimethacrylate, polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycoldimethacrylate, or ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylatecopolymer; perlites; magnesium carbonate; or mixtures thereof.
 29. Thecosmetic composition according to claim 21, wherein the at least onefiller having oil absorption capacity greater than or equal to about 1mL/g is chosen from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having aspecific surface area per unit of mass (S_(M)) ranging from about 500m²/g to about 1500 m²/g, and a size, expressed as the mean volumediameter (D[0.5]), ranging from about 1 μm to about 1500 μm.
 30. Thecosmetic composition according to claim 21, wherein the at least onefiller having oil absorption capacity greater than or equal to about 1mL/g is chosen from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having anoil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from about 5mL/g to about 18 mL/g.
 31. The cosmetic composition according to claim21, wherein the at least one filler having oil absorption capacitygreater than or equal to about 1 mL/g is chosen from hydrophobic silicaaerogel particles having a tamped density ρ ranging from about 0.04g/cm³ to about 0.10 g/cm³.
 32. The cosmetic composition according toclaim 21, wherein the at least one filler having oil absorption capacitygreater than or equal to about 1 mL/g is chosen from hydrophobic silicaaerogel particles that are surface modified by at least onetrimethylsilyl group.
 33. The cosmetic composition according to claim21, wherein the total amount of filler having oil absorption capacitygreater than or equal to about 1 mL/g present in the composition rangesabout 0.1% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of thecomposition.
 34. The cosmetic composition according to claim 21, whereinthe at least one filler having oil absorption capacity greater than orequal to about 1 mL/g comprises hydrophobic silica aerogel particlespresent in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 5.0% by weight,relative to the total weight of the composition.
 35. The cosmeticcomposition according to claim 21, wherein the cosmetic composition isan emulsion.
 36. The cosmetic composition according to claim 21, furthercomprising at least one additional component chosen from water,hydrophilic solvents, lipophilic solvents, oils, or mixtures thereof.37. The cosmetic composition according to claim 21, wherein the cosmeticcomposition is in the form of a base, primer, skin care base, skin careprimer, make-up base, or make-up primer.
 38. A cosmetic processcomprising a step of applying onto the skin at least one layer of acosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:(i) at least one plate type filler having a refractive index greaterthan about 1.6 and having a particle size ranging from about 1 μm toabout 20 μm, (ii) at least one silicon elastomer, and (iii) at least onefiller having an oil absorption capacity greater than or equal to about1 mL/g.
 39. The cosmetic process according to claim 38, wherein thecosmetic composition is applied as a base or primer under a skin careproduct or a make-up product.
 40. A cosmetic process for decreasing thevisibility of skin imperfections, the process comprising a step ofapplying onto the skin at least one layer of a cosmetic compositioncomprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least oneplate type filler having a refractive index greater than about 1.6 andhaving a particle size ranging from about 1 μm to about 20 μm, (ii) atleast one silicon elastomer, and (iii) at least one filler having an oilabsorption capacity greater than or equal to about 1 mL/g.